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What is squalene and its health benefits?

What is squalene and its health benefits?

Team ErbologyErbology

If you’re no stranger to beauty products you’re likely to have come across squalene in various skincare and cosmetics products. But what is squalene and does it have health benefits for your skin?

November 23, 2022 7:06 pm

What is squalene?

Squalene is a lipid, naturally produced by our skin cells, making up 13% of our sebum. For those of you that don’t know, sebum is the oily and slightly waxy substance found on our skin. It mixes with lipids to form a protective coating on our skin’s surface.

The general biological rule of thumb tends to be that as we age our bodies produce less of things we need. Squalene is no exception to the rule! Peak production of this natural moisturiser occurs throughout our teenage years, with production slowing between our 20’s and 30’s. As a result, our skin becomes drier and rougher as we age. 

The ability of topical squalene to mimic the unique effects of our body’s natural functions is what makes squalene such a desirable ingredient. Fortunately, we can help to combat the natural ageing process by supplementing our body’s squalene supply from whole foods.(1)

What are the benefits of squalene for skin?

As previously mentioned, our skin contains squalene, more specifically in the outer layer. It plays a vital role in protecting us against UV radiation. Without enough squalene, UV rays induce significant inflammation in our skin. Let’s look at what the research says. 

Researchers investigated if squalene could increase procollagen and decrease UV-induced DNA damage. 40 women over the age of 50 took squalene supplementation in low and high doses. The results indicated squalene to be effective at reducing cell death caused by UV radiation. Women who received lower dosage experienced reduced redness and improved collagen activity and those with higher dosage saw a reduction in wrinkles.(2)

A systematic review of studies regarding squalene over the course of 8 years also shows that it has anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce redness and swelling.(3) Because of these properties, squalene can soothe a range of inflammatory skin problems which include:

  • Eczema
  • Inflammatory acne
  • Psoriasis
  • Dermatitis
  • Rosacea

Dry skin is one of the main symptoms of the above skin conditions. Therefore, keeping your skin hydrated can boost your moisture level, thus reducing flare-ups and dry patches.

Squalene vs squalane

What is squalane? You’ve probably heard about squalane if you read the ingredients of some skincare products.

In its naturally occurring state squalene has a brief shelf life because it goes rancid when exposed to oxygen. Therefore, it’s difficult to include it as an ingredient in beauty products. 

Squalane, however, solves that problem. It’s a hydrogenated, more stable version of squalene. It simply means  that it does not react to oxygen in the same way squalene does. In short, it offers the same moisturising properties and benefits for skin as squalene, but with a much greater shelf life.

You might be thinking that hydrogenation is bad for you, especially when it comes to food. However, this is not the case when it comes to skincare. It makes the oil softer, thinner, and more skin-friendly. In addition, all squalene must undergo hydrogenation to be a part of skincare products.

What are the benefits of squalene for health?

Outside of skin care, one of the benefits of squalene is its ability to help strengthen our body’s immune system through the activation of the white blood cells. Because of this, an adjuvant using squalene (Seqirus’ proprietary MF59) is a part of influenza vaccines to help stimulate our human body’s immune response through the production of memory cells.

Together with the production of anti-inflammatory cytokines, squalene also helps mediate tissue remodelling and repair through the recruitment of immune cells and production of anti-inflammatory signals.(4)

As a polyunsaturated fatty acid, squalene promotes cholesterol absorption in the body. In addition, polyunsaturated fats can improve HDL and LDL cholesterol levels, with the latter being a major cause of heart disease.(5) People who suffer from diabetes, may have higher levels of LDL, i.e. bad cholesterol, and lower levels of HDL, i.e. good cholesterol. Scientists investigated the effect of squalene consumption on cholesterol over a period of 84 days. The results were positive, with the research concluding that squalene decreased LDLs in diabetic patients.(6)

There’s also some research suggesting squalene can reduce the risk of cancer. Squalene is a natural antioxidant which may have antitumor properties, protecting our skin from carcinogens. It also helps fight skin damage and free radicals, which accelerate the ageing process. Although squalene appears to be critical in reducing oxidative damage to the skin, few human trials have been conducted to date to verify the role of squalene in cancer therapy.(7)

What are the sources of squalene?

You can find squalene in small quantities in the human body and from certain plants such as olives, sugar cane and amaranth seeds. However, the largest known quantities of squalene are available in the livers of deep-sea sharks.

This is unfortunate because sharks are essential when it comes to keeping the oceans healthy. As apex predators, sharks feed on animals below them in the food chain, thus helping to maintain balance in marine ecosystems.

The United Nations conducted research and released a report announcing that over 50 shark species are fished for the purpose of liver oil. Alarmingly, several of these appear on the International Union for the Conservation of Nature’s Red List. The most desirable are deep-sea sharks, because their livers account for 20% of their body weight. These deep-sea sharks are at such a great risk of overfishing that scientists conclude that they should not be caught at all.(8)

Free Whale shark swimming under crystal clear water of ocean near surface under sunlights Stock Photo

Although the popularity of shark fin soup in Southeast Asia has historically been blamed for this number, Greenpeace noted, the overfishing of sharks is driven by a much larger international trade that’s after more than just the sharks’ fins, such as the cosmetics industry. In fact, cosmetics account for up to 90% of shark liver oil production worldwide and roughly 3,000 sharks are needed to produce 1 ton of squalane. To put this into perspective, this contributes to around 2.7 million deep sea shark deaths each year.

Fortunately, squalene can be plant-based. However, for many brands, traceability remains an issue, as they use vague and deceptive language to mask where their squalene comes from.

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"Generally speaking, hydrated skin equals healthy skin. Therefore, when applied topically (to the skin), squalene has tremendous benefits."

What are the best sources of squalene?

There are many plant-based alternatives to shark squalene. You can find it in olives, rice bran, wheat germ, and amaranth seeds. Squalene can also be harvested and purified from the leftovers of the olive oil refining process.

However, with many plant-based ingredients, cost remains a huge factor for the cosmetic industry. For example, olive-derived squalene is 30% more expensive than squalene harvested from shark livers, highlighting that there is still a long way to come before plant-based products become the mainstream choice. 

The most notable plant-based alternative is amaranth. Although squalene is more commonly associated with olive oil, cold-pressed amaranth seed oil contains ten times as much squalene.(9) Erbology Amaranth Seed Oil contains around 7% of squalene. Even though high quality extra virgin olive oil is also a good source, it still contains much less than amaranth.

Our organic cold-pressed oil is made from amaranth seeds and should be enjoyed at room-temperature (never heated). It’s so versatile that you can use it to moisturise your skin or add to smoothies, yoghurt and salad dressings. If you lean more to the side of cooking with it, this next section will be of interest to you.

How do I use amaranth in cooking?

With most new ingredients, it’s always helpful to get a few ideas of how you can use it in your daily food routine. So how do you bring amaranth into your kitchen?

Fortunately, the unique amaranth comes in lots of different forms, all with terrific health benefits. So, no matter your cooking ability or style, amaranth will fit brilliantly into your recipes. For example, amaranth seed oil is fantastic for drizzling over salads and soups or adding to porridges! It adds a nutty flavour and contains other valuable nutrients, such as vitamin E and omega-6 fatty acids. 

Amaranth grain on the other hand is a brilliant substitute for quinoa, millet or rice alongside a main dish. It’s a simple and straightforward ingredient and is one of few complete plant-based proteins containing all nine essential amino acids. At 14% protein, it also contains close to double the amount found in rice. 

Amaranth flour can help you channel your inner bake-off contestant, but in a much more relaxing environment! Transform your go-to baking recipes into high protein and fibre-rich showstoppers for friends and family. Our Amaranth Flour is 100% organic and raw, so you can be sure there are no hidden undesirables. We’ve also yet to mention that amaranth flour is gluten-free! This makes it a great replacement for all-purpose flour, barley flour, rye flour and spelt flour when you are baking and cooking.

Note: Make sure to double-check recipes before you use amaranth flour. Especially for bread making, where in some cases no more than 25% of the flour can be replaced by amaranth flour as a blend. Any more can affect the structure and texture of the bread.

So, what’s the best way to take squalene?

Generally speaking, hydrated skin equals healthy skin. Therefore, when applied topically (to the skin), squalene has tremendous benefits. In fact, boosting hydration can help your skin appear more vibrant and healthier. Regular squalene use can also boost collagen production, resulting in firmer skin. 

Amaranth seed oil is lightweight and noncomedogenic, meaning it won’t clog your pores, while natural skin oils, dead skin cells, and bacteria can. It can penetrate pores and improve skin at the cellular level, without feeling heavy on the skin.

If you happen to suffer from acne-prone or oily skin, using the wrong skin care products can trigger a breakout or worsen blemishes. However, amaranth seed oil rich in squalene is a great alternative if other oils are too heavy or greasy for your skin.

Before applying amaranth seed oil or squalane-based skincare to your face, the general advice is to use a gentle cleanser to clean out your pores. Also, exfoliate once or twice a week to remove dead skin cells.

What are the side effects of squalane?

With most skin care products, there’s always a risk of irritation or an allergic reaction. Therefore if you’re using squalane for the first time, don’t apply it over a large area of your body. Instead, test the oil on a patch of your skin such as your inner arm to check for a reaction. Signs of an allergic reaction to look out for include itching, redness and swelling.

So, does squalene have health benefits?

As our bodies produce less and less squalene, our skin starts to age and become dry. As a natural moisturiser, squalene may support hydration in our skin. It can also increase production of collagen, which is the protein most known for skin health and hair growth. In addition, squalene-rich foods and squalane may protect from inflammation caused by UV rays. (10) Finally, there is also evidence to suggest the positive effects squalene may have on our immune system and cardiovascular health. 

Speaking of squalane in skincare, it’s essential to highlight that the last thing cosmetics should be doing is harming our environment and the creatures we share the planet with. The Food and Agricultural Organization (FAO) reports that over a quarter of the world’s shark species are over-exploited for commercial reasons and a shocking one hundred million sharks are killed by commercial fisheries every year. Sharks play an integral role in the equilibrium of our marine ecosystems, and their absence in the ocean would be devastating. 

The only way to guarantee that the squalane in cosmetic products is shark-free is to look for the certified vegan label. This label guarantees that the cosmetic is free of any animal ingredient. You can also use reputable brands with transparent sourcing that guarantee its squalane is 100% plant-based. 

Fortunately, there are many plant-based alternatives to shark squalene. To recap, you can find it in olives, rice bran, wheat germ, and most notably amaranth seeds.

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